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Strategy and advice here is aimed at two types of player — those who are new to the game, and those who have some experience and would like to improve their understanding and win-rates!

While there is a lot of information on Sit N Goes and tournaments, a lot of the information here applies across all poker formats. In , I still believe that Sit N Goes, and in particular the 1-table tournament versions of those games, are great for building a poker bankroll.

The vast majority of players will move on from these games sooner rather than later. Hopefully this will be with a bankroll big enough to try other formats, and with a new found understanding of how to adjust your poker play to different situations and opponents.

Below you will see some of the most popular poker guides and strategy articles from around the site. These are grouped into several types.

Sit N Go Strategy: From 1 table tournaments up to 90 Players, Sit and Goes are defined as tournaments with no fixed starting time, they simply start when there are enough players enrolled.

While the main focus is on 1-table games, a whole lot more is covered here from beginners through to some advanced math. You will find info and strategy advice on Double or Nothing, Knockout, 6-max, heads-up, Fifty50, Steps, Super-Turbos and more in this section of the site, as well as unique SNG centered reviews and comparisons of the different poker sites.

Tournament strategy gets complex, and I have it all covered here from the building blocks through to advanced moves. Many MTT variations are covered, including knockouts, rebuys, turbo tournaments and more.

Every poker site now offers qualifier games to both their own online events and live tournaments like the World Series, European Poker Tour or Aussie Millions.

These have strategy considerations all of their own, which my articles explain. This section also covers the growing number of online poker events and qualification to those big online poker tournaments.

Great for those readers with smaller bankrolls who want to take a shot at the big money! I have read the same old reviews of poker sites over and over again, and have created something different with the poker sites section here.

Instead of just a list of facts, you will get my opinions on what works, what does not and where to find the easiest games.

You will find comparisons on specific subjects and advice on which bonuses are easy to clear and which ones are impossible. I stick to the biggest and best known sites here, for security and for a bigger choice of games.

You will find some exclusive reader offers here including SNG tokens, cash boosts with your first deposit and more.

Your goal now becomes accumulating chips. The best way to accumulate chips is by stealing blinds. Does that mean we can just start raising any two cards all willy-nilly because we have position?

Then what types of hands make suitable steal hands? Random trash hands are still exactly that: Think of it this way: Which hands would you play from early position in an extremely passive cash game?

This is roughly the range of hands you can now start raising from late position. A hand like s is an excellent candidate for a steal-raise.

A hand like J-2s, not so much. Your goal, of course, is to take the pot down without a fight. However, you are going to get called sometimes.

This is why your hands must have at least some value on the flop. When called, you should play your hands on the flop similarly to how you would any other time.

If you are called in one spot then you should likely follow your pre-flop raise with a continuation bet on the flop.

This is what we hope for. Ideally we want to just take the pot down with no contest. The goal is to get a fold so pat yourself on the back.

In this example we get called pre-flop but now a nice continuation bet takes down the pot for us. Which leads me to another point: If people are folding for 2.

You want to win the pot while putting the least amount of your chips at risk as possible. This hand is different than the previous two.

If you get pushed on then it almost makes a fold mathematically impossible. While playing in the mid-blind region you must always be aware of your table image.

Be aware of how others around the table perceive you. Some will try and re-steal against you since they know you are raising a lot.

If you sense your opponents have picked up you are stealing too much, slow down for a rotation or two. Everyone at the table will probably be short-stacked in the classic sense of the word.

The average stack will only be around 12 BBs. This is approaching push-or-fold time for everybody. If you play this stage better than they do you will show a long-term positive expectation.

At this stage of the game, post-flop play is out the window - flops are rarely seen. You have two options: And, by god, should you be pushing.

Your goal is to win sit-and-gos. You have to have the killer instinct to attack and destroy players who are happy just limping into the money or moving up the pay scale.

Everyone wants to finish in the money; nobody is playing to get eliminated. But your goal is to win.

Therefore, you have to look at the long term and put the short term out of your mind. Concentrate on making good plays at the correct time and forget about the results.

If you make the correct plays, success will eventually follow. The top three players in a sit-and-go typically get paid.

There will almost certainly be some short stacks thinking if they play ultra-tight they may sneak into the money.

You want to get more aggressive, not less. When play is short-handed the blinds will already be very high. When the game is short-handed, those rotations come fast and furious, decimating your stack.

The action is frenetic now and you should be trying to steal as often as you can get away with it. If you notice someone is calling pushes liberally, then ease up your aggression against that player.

I will, however, discuss the situations you should look for to get your hands all-in. My advice would be this: Never call off your stack hoping for a coin flip.

Rely on fold equity to supplement your stack. Your hand value is just something you can fall back on in case you are called! The button calls and the blinds fold.

In this situation we shoved a good ace with less than 10 BBs. Obviously we were hoping for a fold. However, the button decided to race with us.

This result is fine. Most importantly, he has no fold equity. He can only win the hand one way: When we shove the A-7, we can win the pot by having everyone fold or we can win at showdown!

The game is four-handed. Oh noez - you got called by a monster. This is terrible, right? That difference in expected value is made up by the blind overlay.

No two unpaired cards are that much of a favorite against two other non-paired hands. This is the key to late-stage sit-and-go play.

The aggressor has two ways to win while the caller only has one. Never allow yourself to get blinded out. Being blinded out means you gave up on your sit-and-go.

Stop trying to limp your way to the small money and start shoving your way to that first-place prize.

But there are a few things to take into account before you decide to get all passive and just call. Obviously if you have a monster, no debate: You have to look at your stack.

If you have no money invested in the pot, then you should be less likely to want to call off your chips. In fact you should never cold-call your chips off unless you think you are a favorite and are getting odds on your money.

The game is three-handed. What do you do? The player in the small blind should be shoving almost any two cards here. What should you do? This one you have to call off your chips.

Even tight players are going to be shoving most aces in this spot and your hand is far better than average. I would recommend you fold a smaller ace in this spot but with a big ace like A-T you have to make the call.

While I recommend against just calling in my overall strategy, I did have to put this in here. So our focus now is heads-up play. Neither player will hold much of an edge over the other because of the structure.

The match usually comes down to whomever gets the best cards in the shortest period of time. Pocket pairs are very robust. Hands that decrease in value are weak speculative hands, like low suited connectors.

While they may be decent hands to raise with as a steal, they should not be played against a raise. These hands dramatically drop in value when the stacks are short.

When they do hit the flop, they usually make weak second-pair type hands or gut-shot draws. This is the crux of heads-up poker in a sit-and-go. You have two over-cards and an open-ended straight draw.

Luckily you have a massive draw and are getting great odds. You should of course, as always in poker, be exploiting your position to the max. Continue pushing hard when in position.

So stay on your toes and keep up the fight. Well, that brings our Beginners Guide to becoming a sit-and-go champion to a close.

Sucking out happens less than winning outright so in the long run the strategy is sound.

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1 Comments

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